What is selvedge denim: A comprehensive guide to the premium fabric
Published: May 24, 2023
Selvedge denim has experienced a resurgence in popularity due to its unique characteristics and historical allure. Often considered a higher-quality and more exclusive type of denim, selvedge fabrics are created through a specific weaving process that results in a self-finished edge, preventing the denim from unraveling. This feature can be spotted on the cuffs of jeans, usually white with a colored yarn in the middle, such as the iconic "redline" selvedge denim.
The production of selvedge denim is more labor-intensive and costly compared to its non-selvedge counterparts. Many denim enthusiasts appreciate selvedge fabrics for their use of better quality yarns, dyes, and attention to detail in construction. While Japan is widely recognized as the leader in selvedge denim production, historic US mills also play a significant role in the market presence.
Incorporating the element of nostalgia, selvedge denim represents an appreciation for traditional craftsmanship and the artistry of weaving. Each piece has its own unique variations that ultimately tell a story of the multifactorial process, such as spinning, dyeing, weaving, and sewing, that goes into making this distinctive denim.
What Is Selvedge Denim
Selvedge denim, also known as selvedge or self-edge, is a type of high-quality denim fabric that is known for its durability, unique appearance, and distinctive finishing. This fabric has become increasingly popular in recent years due to its craftsmanship and vintage appeal.
The term "selvedge" refers to the narrow, tightly woven band present on both edges of the denim fabric, which prevents it from unraveling and fraying. This feature gives the fabric a cleaner and more polished appearance compared to conventional denim. The selvedge edge is often white with a colored yarn in the middle, with red yarn being referred to as "redline" selvedge ^1^.
Selvedge denim is more labor-intensive and expensive to produce, as it requires an attention to detail not typically found in non-selvedge denim production. Manufacturers of selvedge denim use better quality yarn and dye, resulting in a superior final product ^2^.
Raw denim is another term you may come across, which refers to denim that is unwashed and straight off the roll. Every piece of denim, whether selvedge or not, starts as raw denim. You can find selvedge jeans in both raw and washed varieties, depending on your preferences ^3^.
While Japan remains the leader in producing selvedge denim, other countries like the United States have also started to play a significant role in its production due to increasing demand ^4^.
In summary, selvedge denim is a higher-quality, more durable denim fabric known for its distinctive edge and attention to detail. Its popularity has grown in recent years, leading to an increasing demand for this unique and vintage style of denim.
History of Selvedge Denim
Vintage Denim
Selvedge denim has its roots in the 1950s when every denim piece that brands manufactured was made using this technique. Film stars and celebrities like James Dean helped bring denim clothes into mainstream culture, which fueled the demand for this fabric (Stuarts London). To keep up with the growing demand, manufacturers had to abandon the lengthy process of selvedge denim production and create jeans more quickly.
The allure of vintage denim lies in its uniqueness, as subtle variations in fabric are representative of the multifaceted production process - spinning, dyeing, weaving, and sewing - and the era in which the denim was made (Man of Many).
Japan and Selvedge Denim
Japan is a key player in reviving the popularity of selvedge denim due to their dedication to the traditional techniques and maintaining high-quality products. The country has become a leader in producing selvedge denim, with historic US mills like Cone Mills being the second-largest producer (The Modest Man).
Japanese denim is known for its quality and craftsmanship, resulting in a demand for these products worldwide. Selvedge denim is more costly to produce as it can only be woven at a width of 31", about half the width of non-selvedge denim. It also requires old looms and a higher level of skill and adeptness (Highsnobiety).
Shuttle Looms and Selvedge Denim
Shuttle looms, an essential factor in selvedge denim production, create a closed self-edge during the weaving process. This results in the higher-quality and more durable denim that is sought after by enthusiasts. Selvedge denim is easily recognizable by its usually white edge, often containing a colored yarn in the middle (Denimhunters).
The use of these traditional shuttle looms in manufacturing raw selvedge denim contributes to the honoring of the denim's history and tradition. Thus, selvedge denim has become a symbol of craftsmanship, quality, and dedication to preserving the heritage of the denim industry.
Selvedge Denim Production
Weaving Process
Selvedge denim is produced using a unique weaving process that differs from traditional denim fabric. The primary difference lies in the type of loom used for the weaving, which significantly affects the fabric's appearance and quality. One of the key elements in the process is the use of shuttle looms, which create a finished, tightly woven edge on the fabric known as a selvedge. This tight edge prevents fraying and adds a premium quality to the denim product.
The yarns used in selvedge denim production are typically dyed with natural indigo, giving the fabric its distinctive blue hue. The weaving process involves passing the yarns back and forth between both sides of the loom, creating a tightly woven fabric that is more durable and less prone to fraying than denim made on modern, faster looms.
Looms
Shuttle Looms
Shuttle looms are traditional textile weaving machines that were widely used prior to the 1950s. These looms create selvedge denim by utilizing a mechanism called a shuttle, which passes the yarns between both sides of the loom. The resulting fabric has a tightly woven edge that distinguishes it from non-selvedge denim source.
Though shuttle looms fell out of favor in the mid-20th century due to their slower production speed, they have experienced a resurgence in recent years as more consumers seek high-quality, durable denim products source.
Projectile Loom
Projectile looms are an alternative method for weaving selvedge denim, although they are not as commonly used as shuttle looms. These looms utilize a projectile mechanism to pass the yarns across the loom, creating a similar tightly woven edge to the fabric. However, projectile looms typically weave faster and allow for wider fabric production than shuttle looms, though they may not produce denim with the same level of quality and durability source.
Selvedge denim production, with its emphasis on quality and tradition, continues to appeal to those who value the craft and durability of the fabric. The weaving process and the use of various looms, including shuttle and projectile looms, play an essential role in creating the distinctive characteristics that set selvedge denim apart from other denim products.
Difference Between Selvedge and Non-Selvedge Denim
Selvedge denim is a type of high-quality denim known for its distinctive finished edge, which prevents unraveling. The edges of selvedge denim are tightly woven, creating a durable and long-lasting fabric. These jeans are often considered premium products and are generally more expensive than their non-selvedge counterparts Man of Many.
Non-selvedge denim, on the other hand, lacks the finished edges found in selvedge denim. The fabric is usually made using a more cost-effective and efficient weaving process. Although non-selvedge jeans are typically more affordable, they may not have the same level of durability and longevity Venuszine.
One noticeable difference between the two types of denim can be seen on the outseams. For selvedge denim, the outseams are finished with a clean, tight weave, resulting in a band of white fabric that's often visible when the jeans are cuffed. This signature detail is not present in non-selvedge jeans Denimhunters.
Historically, selvedge denim was once the standard for workwear due to its durability and sturdiness. With the introduction of faster and more efficient weaving processes, non-selvedge denim eventually became more prevalent in the market. However, selvedge denim has recently experienced a resurgence in popularity among denim enthusiasts and connoisseurs who appreciate its superior craftsmanship and quality.
In summary, the main differences between selvedge and non-selvedge denim lie in the weaving process, resulting in differences in outseams, durability, and cost. Selvedge denim is often viewed as a more premium and long-lasting option, while non-selvedge denim offers a more affordable alternative for those who still appreciate denim as a wardrobe staple.
Quality and Durability
Selvedge denim is known for its high quality and durability. The manufacturing process employs a traditional weaving technique that creates a tighter, denser fabric, making it more resistant to wear and tear compared to standard denim. As a result, selvedge denim is often considered a long-lasting investment for a wardrobe.
One aspect that contributes to selvedge denim's durability is its unique, narrow edge. This edge, typically white with a colored yarn in the middle, prevents the fabric from unraveling and fraying at the ends, which results in a clean, finished appearance1. Moreover, the shuttled weaving process produces a softer finished product, which is another desirable quality2.
Incorporating selvedge denim into a wardrobe can provide the satisfaction of owning a classic, high-quality garment. The craftsmanship involved in producing this type of denim ensures that it withstands intense use, making it an ideal choice for those seeking a long-lasting addition to their wardrobe.
Japanese selvedge denim, in particular, is highly regarded in the fashion industry for its quality and style. As Japan is currently the leader in producing fashionable selvedge denim2, many enthusiasts gravitate towards Japanese-made jeans for their durability and attention to detail.
To summarize, selvedge denim is a top-quality fabric known for its durability, making it an excellent choice for individuals seeking to invest in long-lasting, classic wardrobe pieces. The unique weaving process and finished edge contribute to its resilience, ensuring the denim's longevity and timeless appeal.
The Raw Denim Connection
Raw denim, also known as dry denim, refers to denim fabric that has not undergone any pre-washing or shrinking processes during production. This type of denim is initially quite stiff but transforms significantly over time as it adapts to the wearer's body and activities. As a result, raw denim jeans typically create unique creases and fading patterns 1.
Selvedge denim is often associated with raw denim due to their shared origins in traditional manufacturing techniques. Selvedge refers to the tightly woven, self-finished edge of the denim fabric, produced on shuttle looms. The term itself is a combination of the words "self" and "edge" 2. Although raw denim jeans can be made from selvedge denim, not every raw denim is necessarily selvedge.
When it comes to raw denim jeans, one should be aware of the shrinkage factor. Unlike sanforized or pre-shrunk denim, raw denim can shrink up to 10% after the first wash3. This is crucial when selecting the appropriate size for a pair of raw denim jeans, as the initial fit may not be the final fit after washing.
The unique fading patterns of raw denim jeans reflect the wearer's habits and movements, making each pair truly one-of-a-kind. These fades can occur in several areas, such as the whiskering around the front pockets, honeycombs behind the knees, and stacking at the bottom hem.
In summary, raw denim is an unwashed, untreated denim fabric that forms a connection with selvedge denim due to their traditional manufacturing processes. These jeans offer a personalized and distinctive look, as they develop unique creases and fades over time.
Japanese Selvedge Denim
Japanese Selvedge Denim stands out in the denim world due to its high-quality craftsmanship, attention to detail, and unique manufacturing techniques. Japan's love for denim dates back to the post-World War II era, when Japanese manufacturers acquired shuttle looms from the United States in the 1950s. These looms allowed them to produce tightly woven strips of heavy fabric, sealed with a finished edge, known as selvedge.
One of the prominent mills in Japan known for its selvedge denim production is Kaihara. The Kaihara Mill has been in operation since 1893 and has incorporated traditional Japanese textile-making methods and indigo dying expertise into its denim production process. Samurai, a well-known Japanese denim brand, specializes in crafting high-quality garments using authentic selvedge denim. Both Kaihara and Samurai have helped shape Japan's reputation as a leading producer for high-quality selvedge denim.
In Japan, the manufacturing technique for selvedge denim involves meticulous attention to detail, as well as a commitment to preserving the art of traditional indigo dying and weaving processes. Some key features of Japanese selvedge denim include:
- Indigo dye: The deep, rich color of Japanese denim is achieved through natural indigo dying, which adds character to the fabric and allows it to age gracefully over time.
- Shuttle looms: Selvedge denim is produced on traditional shuttle looms, which give the fabric its distinct edge and high-density weave.
- Craftsmanship: Japanese denim artisans are known for their high level of skill, dedication, and attention to detail.
The Japanese selvedge denim market has preserved many of the traditional methods of denim production and indigo dying, ensuring that the final product stands out among others in the industry. With its rich history, expert craftsmanship, and unique production techniques, Japanese selvedge denim remains a benchmark for high-quality denim garments. This history of Japanese denim is an essential part of understanding how Japan has become a leading force in denim production.
Fast Fashion and the Role of Selvedge Denim
Fast fashion has become increasingly popular in recent years, with consumers seeking trendy, affordable clothing options. This often leads to mass production of inexpensive garments that may not last long, ultimately contributing to waste and environmental issues. However, the increasing interest in selvedge denim can be seen as a shift towards quality and longevity in fashion.
Selvedge denim is created using a shuttle loom, which produces a neat, finished edge on the fabric. This edge, also known as the 'self-edge', prevents the denim from fraying or unraveling at the ends, resulting in a cleaner, more polished appearance. The slower, more traditional production method of shuttle weaving is associated with higher quality denim products.
Though selvedge denim is generally more expensive than common fast fashion jeans, it offers greater durability for long-term wear. Investing in a pair of selvedge jeans can provide longer-lasting style, which may be more environmentally friendly and cost-effective in the long run. Additionally, the unique design of selvedge denim sets it apart from mass-produced jeans, making it a desirable option for those seeking a more individualized look.
While fast fashion dominates the clothing industry, selvedge denim offers an alternative for those who value quality and craftsmanship. Incorporating selvedge jeans into one's wardrobe can be a conscious effort to shift away from the disposable mindset often associated with fast fashion, putting more focus on timeless style and sustainable practices in clothing choices.
